melle_chantilly: (Valhalla)
I've remade for [personal profile] anatsuno  the jacket I made myself after the holidays using the pattern for a cardigan in a Japanese book. It feels so good to have finished a sewing project! :)







The main fabric is a thick wool/synthetic blend (quite similar to the one I used myself) and the sleeves are cut from a woolly jersey (two layers since it was a little thin).
melle_chantilly: (Default)
 I re-used this cardigan pattern using a thick boiled wool (of an unknown composition, including some synthetic fiber). I wanted the back shape to stick out instead of draping.



Success! It protrudes nicely, and the garment has a nice avant-garde feel. Edit: and the cool thing is I can sit on it, it pops back out when I stand. :D



I made the sleeves with another, more flexible, fabric (some wool jersey leftovers from my first drop crotch pants and the Brume skirt). I was super duper lucky as the pattern I drafted for the sleeves (original cardigan is short sleeves) fit exactly in the remnants I have. I was ready to narrow and shorten the pattern if needed but no! Ha!



There is a small issue I didn't foresee when using the original pattern, which was meant for knits, with woven fabric: the buttonband is straight, while the body has a round edge, so the garment puckers a bit along the edges. In retrospect I should also have lengthened the buttonband as it is meant to stretch slightly but it doesn't really work with woven fabrics and doesn't help the whole thing to stay flat. I don't really mind, except the buttonband tends to roll out, and the inside of the garment isn't super neat.



Well, it isn't bad, but I'd rather have a neat finished inside (lining, bias, what have you). Standard cotton bias is out, because it will only stiffen the seams more. Maybe I can sew some stretchy ribbon over the zigzaged edge? I don't know. If you have an idea, please let me know.
I am in love with those brushed metal buttons the haberdasher picked for me.



I also took a photo of my altered Haujobb tee. It was the only one they had at the merch booth in Leipzig, a men's XL. I normally wear men's S or women's M, so it was really huge for me. I cut the neckline open and finished it with a jersey bias, I removed all the sleeve length, leaving just a sort of cap sleeve, and narrowed the hips so it fits more snuggly, drapes nicely and has a sort of batwing shape. Neat! I'm very happy with it (although I could have tightened the bias a little, because that neckline is a tad too SEXAY.)

I have so sewing projects planned: make a woven fabric sloper from the Pattern Magic method and then tackle one of the weird ass neck tops from one of the first two books, remake my defunct favourite trousers, with a nice wool I bought, make a bloomers pattern, make a cotton jersey drapey cardigan, eventually try to make a lined jacket... :D
melle_chantilly: (Glossy Red Lips)
Health

I'm slowly getting back to my normal self (well, I'm still depressed but it's more background noise). It's unlikely the ADs are kicking in already, but just speaking to my GP and getting heard and validated regarding my issues with my mother certainly helped a great deal. It's so difficult not to feel like a cold hearted bitch when dealing with a narcissistic mother.

Music

I'm in Lyon! I'm writing from the Starbucks in the Part Dieu train station. Tonight is the Kirlian Camera concert! Whee! Right now, I have a comfy armchair and a power outlet so I could stay here forever. LOL[Bad username or unknown identity: snakeling]is getting off work in about half an hour. I've started working on a mixtape in the train and I'm finishing it as we speak (giving it a last listen to make sure everything is level).

Crafting


Leben Heißt Leben

I finally finished my sarouel pants from the "Féminin Masculin/She has a mannish style" book. I'm very happy with them! And surprised too because I tried them on before putting the waistband on and they looked awful.

I've learned how to sew a zipper, make a fly, belt loops and slanted pockets (although the instruction for those were a bit messy and there was a mistake in the pattern so they didn't turn out great, but they're nothing to be ashamed of).



They have a mid-season feel to them but I still wore them with tights underneath (how long ago did I wear tights?? And I tucked my shirt in to show off, obv).

I also never took the time to take photos and write about the cardigan from the same book. It has a very interesting shape that I immediately fell in love with. The back has a sort of pointy, hunched shape. The button bands are actually just one band that rounds around the bottom of the garment.



I made it out of silk jersey. The colour is beautiful, although difficult to capture. Something like bronze and verdigris, the sheen of the silk giving it a slightly metallic look.

I'm contemplating remaking them in a thick boiled wool I bought just because, so that the back doesn't drape but rather make a stiff angle (more like it did in the book pictures), with long sleeves. Hmmm.



The women at my haberdashery are very encouraging of my craft. I mentioned that i bought beautiful thick wool that would be suitable for a coat or a jacket but that I was really not experimented enough to tackle one. The haberdasher looked at my cardigan and said: "you've done all the tricky part on this already, so go for it." Eep. I had already been browsing jacket patterns (because of course) and I have a few that I really love pinned on a Pinterest board. Burda has some really classic timeless pieces (a few dated ones too of course) but also some really innovative designs.

I also made a skirt from Drape Drape 2 for NL. It was very nice sewing for a friend! :) I hope it fits her. The pattern was a bit mind boggling, which is half the fun with DD.

And this is my next project: the Guise pants, in fine costume wool. Black, yes. I'm on the fence about lining them. I'd have to improvise a lining, since the pattern doesn't include one. I don't know how I feel about that. But I want to be warm!

Watching

I've just started watching The Affair (after finishing both Kimmy Schmidt and Aquarius) and as far as the first few episodes go, it is really really good. Beautiful writing and acting. How could I say no to a show gathering Joshua Jackson, Dominic West and Ruth Wilson (Alice from Luther). It is pretty heavy though, a lot focusing on dealing with the death of a child, some self-mutilation and of course the whole extra-marital business.
melle_chantilly: (Default)

I made a shirt! Yes, it's another potato sack-like thing. :D It's got a gathered back, dropped shoulders and an overall loose shape. I saw a few projects from online people in addition to the photos from the book so I knew what to expect. I found a heavy enough fabric (thin/medium wool with a good body) so that the back gathers would drop and not float diagonally like a tent.



I am overall pleased with my finishings and seaming, although it's far from perfect. I had issues around the tips of the  sleeves edging, and also assembling the collar stand (in general I am really not good yet at assembling pieces in a bias fold. My stitches will look good on one side and be very uneven on the other side. I suspect my ironing, pinning and stitching all lack accuracy).

I finished the tips of the collar stand by hand. My machine was jamming quite a bit (in retrospect, I should probably have changed the needle). I also probably sewed each buttonhole at least twice, unpicking them fastidiously each time they were crooked. I also wasn't very careful pressing my facing and didn't clean my iron afterwards so a bit of glue transferred onto the pockets and collar. Oops. It'll come off eventually.



I thought a round collar would be easier to tackle than a classic pointed one but I don't think that's true! Making a nice even curve is really hard!

Anyway, I'm pretty chuffed. It took me a couple of days and managed to keep my back in good health, which is a first while sewing! I'm contemplating making this with the black silk crepe I bought. I'm also very tempted to go back later to Tissumarket to see if the beautiful red silk remnants I had spotted are still there, and also buy some jersey other than black. :) I want to make things from Drape Drape 2 but I'm a bit fed up of sewing black. :)

melle_chantilly: (Jen)


This is the sewing project I'm the most proud of. The fabrics I picked (body and pocket lining) worked perfectly to achieve le look I was after.

The pattern ("pantalon fuselé F" from J'adore les pantalons/I love pants by Yuko Takada) is clear, and the instructions quite complete.



I graded up to one size larger than the biggest size in the book (so that would be a Japanese XL) but used the XS length, and it was perfect!

I sewed the buttons on the waistband multiple times, and in the end I gave them stems (like one would do for coat buttons) to prevent the waistband from puckering.



Pretty proud of my stitching (only the waistband overstitch isn't perfectly straight, oops!). The finishing on the inside isn't too bad either. 



It's an unusual shape for me but I really like it! Now I need to take a break from sewing for a few days because it really isn't good for my back (I need an office chair to sit higher at the table I think). But I've just received Drape Drape 2, soo it's going to be hard to resist!
melle_chantilly: (SplitFace Lutens)

 

So, these jersey pants from I Love Pants/J'Adore Les Pantalons. The sewing itself was rather straightforward, except the pleating part which left me scratching my head for a long half an hour. I think there's a mistake in the pattern? Anyway, I'm happy with the way I did my pleats.

The finishings aren't too great, especially the overstitching of the side seam. This is when jersey truly becomes fiddly and annoying (and I probably didn't swatch enough to find the perfect tension). But that seam ends up under a big fat pleat! So WHO CARES. :D

The issue is that the pants ended up HUGE. I trusted the size chart and so I graded the pattern to a size over the largest in the book but they're very big! I had an inkling I could get away with a too small size for a pleated stretchy pair of pants but I wanted to try grading and see. Well.

They're also too long, which I could have foreseen (since the tunic by the same designer is a knee length dress for me! at least it's consistent). I'd rather have them it me right under the knee. I still like them!

The waist is elasticated, the fabric bunches up a lot, and I'm not fond of the look (it screams lazy tailoring to me. The pleats could have been a wee deeper and the waist reduced by a good 20 cm imho). But I never tuck my tops into my pants, and it is fairly smooth under a t-shirt.



(Yep, there's a horizontal line on the front, it's... dirt. ><)

I'm a bit nervous now because I'd like to make more complicated pants from the same book and it might end up a disaster. Time to measure my inseam and do some calculations? They're carrot pants and the fabric is slightly stretchy so I think I can get away with a less than perfect fit. I'd like to try a non-stretchy project beforehand, with a basic and easy fabric, just to practice some more. *thinking*

I did buy some cheap sheets though and I will... make a toile! 

melle_chantilly: (Glossy Red Lips)


Here's the tunic I just finished. Pattern n°12 from "Masculin Féminin" ("She Has A Mannish Style" in English). Incidentally that's probably the most feminine design of the whole book, haha.

The jersey was slippery as hell so I sewed a lot of baking sheets those days. I had to take in the shoulders a bit because the cleavage was way too deep (it is still deep but not too bad, and it goes well with a Marlies bra as you can see). I think it wouldn't look that deep on a smaller bust (the cowl gathers between my breasts, which is unfortunate).

I'm fairly happy with my sewing, especially given how difficult this fabric was. The pattern is nice, the armholes are a bit low (it's a plus for me but some might not like it), not so much that my bra is showing. I complained about the cap sleeves shape right after finishing it but I had starched the fabric to put the bias on and after washing they are very pretty. It is a lot longer on me than on the model (it reaches above my knees if I don't pull it up a little, which I do because it's clingy and drape-y so let's drape it, yes?). If I remade one, I'd alter the shoulder width too (I could add a dart in the back but I'm not that bothered). Time to start altering patterns, yes?

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melle_chantilly

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