melle_chantilly: (Valhalla)
I've remade for [personal profile] anatsuno  the jacket I made myself after the holidays using the pattern for a cardigan in a Japanese book. It feels so good to have finished a sewing project! :)







The main fabric is a thick wool/synthetic blend (quite similar to the one I used myself) and the sleeves are cut from a woolly jersey (two layers since it was a little thin).
melle_chantilly: (Glossy Red Lips)
Health

I'm slowly getting back to my normal self (well, I'm still depressed but it's more background noise). It's unlikely the ADs are kicking in already, but just speaking to my GP and getting heard and validated regarding my issues with my mother certainly helped a great deal. It's so difficult not to feel like a cold hearted bitch when dealing with a narcissistic mother.

Music

I'm in Lyon! I'm writing from the Starbucks in the Part Dieu train station. Tonight is the Kirlian Camera concert! Whee! Right now, I have a comfy armchair and a power outlet so I could stay here forever. LOL[Bad username or unknown identity: snakeling]is getting off work in about half an hour. I've started working on a mixtape in the train and I'm finishing it as we speak (giving it a last listen to make sure everything is level).

Crafting


Leben Heißt Leben

I finally finished my sarouel pants from the "Féminin Masculin/She has a mannish style" book. I'm very happy with them! And surprised too because I tried them on before putting the waistband on and they looked awful.

I've learned how to sew a zipper, make a fly, belt loops and slanted pockets (although the instruction for those were a bit messy and there was a mistake in the pattern so they didn't turn out great, but they're nothing to be ashamed of).



They have a mid-season feel to them but I still wore them with tights underneath (how long ago did I wear tights?? And I tucked my shirt in to show off, obv).

I also never took the time to take photos and write about the cardigan from the same book. It has a very interesting shape that I immediately fell in love with. The back has a sort of pointy, hunched shape. The button bands are actually just one band that rounds around the bottom of the garment.



I made it out of silk jersey. The colour is beautiful, although difficult to capture. Something like bronze and verdigris, the sheen of the silk giving it a slightly metallic look.

I'm contemplating remaking them in a thick boiled wool I bought just because, so that the back doesn't drape but rather make a stiff angle (more like it did in the book pictures), with long sleeves. Hmmm.



The women at my haberdashery are very encouraging of my craft. I mentioned that i bought beautiful thick wool that would be suitable for a coat or a jacket but that I was really not experimented enough to tackle one. The haberdasher looked at my cardigan and said: "you've done all the tricky part on this already, so go for it." Eep. I had already been browsing jacket patterns (because of course) and I have a few that I really love pinned on a Pinterest board. Burda has some really classic timeless pieces (a few dated ones too of course) but also some really innovative designs.

I also made a skirt from Drape Drape 2 for NL. It was very nice sewing for a friend! :) I hope it fits her. The pattern was a bit mind boggling, which is half the fun with DD.

And this is my next project: the Guise pants, in fine costume wool. Black, yes. I'm on the fence about lining them. I'd have to improvise a lining, since the pattern doesn't include one. I don't know how I feel about that. But I want to be warm!

Watching

I've just started watching The Affair (after finishing both Kimmy Schmidt and Aquarius) and as far as the first few episodes go, it is really really good. Beautiful writing and acting. How could I say no to a show gathering Joshua Jackson, Dominic West and Ruth Wilson (Alice from Luther). It is pretty heavy though, a lot focusing on dealing with the death of a child, some self-mutilation and of course the whole extra-marital business.
melle_chantilly: (Default)

I made a shirt! Yes, it's another potato sack-like thing. :D It's got a gathered back, dropped shoulders and an overall loose shape. I saw a few projects from online people in addition to the photos from the book so I knew what to expect. I found a heavy enough fabric (thin/medium wool with a good body) so that the back gathers would drop and not float diagonally like a tent.



I am overall pleased with my finishings and seaming, although it's far from perfect. I had issues around the tips of the  sleeves edging, and also assembling the collar stand (in general I am really not good yet at assembling pieces in a bias fold. My stitches will look good on one side and be very uneven on the other side. I suspect my ironing, pinning and stitching all lack accuracy).

I finished the tips of the collar stand by hand. My machine was jamming quite a bit (in retrospect, I should probably have changed the needle). I also probably sewed each buttonhole at least twice, unpicking them fastidiously each time they were crooked. I also wasn't very careful pressing my facing and didn't clean my iron afterwards so a bit of glue transferred onto the pockets and collar. Oops. It'll come off eventually.



I thought a round collar would be easier to tackle than a classic pointed one but I don't think that's true! Making a nice even curve is really hard!

Anyway, I'm pretty chuffed. It took me a couple of days and managed to keep my back in good health, which is a first while sewing! I'm contemplating making this with the black silk crepe I bought. I'm also very tempted to go back later to Tissumarket to see if the beautiful red silk remnants I had spotted are still there, and also buy some jersey other than black. :) I want to make things from Drape Drape 2 but I'm a bit fed up of sewing black. :)

melle_chantilly: (Glossy Red Lips)


Here's the tunic I just finished. Pattern n°12 from "Masculin Féminin" ("She Has A Mannish Style" in English). Incidentally that's probably the most feminine design of the whole book, haha.

The jersey was slippery as hell so I sewed a lot of baking sheets those days. I had to take in the shoulders a bit because the cleavage was way too deep (it is still deep but not too bad, and it goes well with a Marlies bra as you can see). I think it wouldn't look that deep on a smaller bust (the cowl gathers between my breasts, which is unfortunate).

I'm fairly happy with my sewing, especially given how difficult this fabric was. The pattern is nice, the armholes are a bit low (it's a plus for me but some might not like it), not so much that my bra is showing. I complained about the cap sleeves shape right after finishing it but I had starched the fabric to put the bias on and after washing they are very pretty. It is a lot longer on me than on the model (it reaches above my knees if I don't pull it up a little, which I do because it's clingy and drape-y so let's drape it, yes?). If I remade one, I'd alter the shoulder width too (I could add a dart in the back but I'm not that bothered). Time to start altering patterns, yes?

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melle_chantilly

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